For a long time, the selection of rock climbers is one of the most frequently asked questions by Chinese coaches. Because there is no systematic statistical material and there is no excellent world-class rock climber, there has been no formal standard for the selection of rock climbers.
This article is only one-sided and briefly put forward its own views from some aspects that influence the quality of the strength and the quality of flexibility.
I. The sensitive period for the development of age, strength, and strength is 13-17 years old. The age of 13-17 is the first peak for the maximum strength to enter rapid growth. The growth of strength in this age group is in sync with the increase in weight, and the maximum strength has grown rapidly, but the relative strength has not grown much. The 16-17 years old is the second highest peak of the rapid growth of the largest force. At this time, the growth rate of muscles is accelerating, and the greatest strength and relative strength are growing rapidly. This is also the most important period for the development of strength. From 18 to 25 years old, the growth of power has become slower. If you do not adhere to training later, your strength will gradually decrease with age. However, if you adhere to good training, the growth of men's power may reach 35 years old. In general, women's maximum strength is about 20 years old, and men are about 25 years old.
The growth of flexibility naturally develops before the age of 10, and after 10 years of age, the flexibility decreases with age. Therefore, due flexibility should be given before the age of 10 to increase the flexibility of natural growth. In the age of 10-13 years, flexible practice should be fully developed. Because this age is sexual maturity, the elasticity and stretchability of muscle ligaments are still more malleable. If the flexibility is not developed before the age of 10, it is 10-13 years old. In this period, compensation can still be made. Exceeding this age will cause the athletes to suffer more pains, take longer and take longer. The growth period is 13-15 years old and the flexibility is reduced. 16-20 years of age, if you have obtained good flexibility before the age of 13, this stage can increase the flexibility load, and further obtain the flexibility required for special sports.
Second, height, weight and body shape robust sturdy type of people because of muscular, so the performance of the power is also greater; body shape of the power of people followed; slender body of people is relatively weak; obese people seem to be the largest The power should be great, but from the perspective of relative power, its power level is not high. In the general selection of sporting events, weight is often related to height, and measured by body weight/height, which is measured in grams per centimeter, that is, how much body weight a one-centimeter height has, and if the index is large, the strength is generally large. However, climbing is not necessarily a good index, because fat and short people are generally larger, but it is not necessarily suitable for rock climbing, so it should be considered from a comprehensive perspective.
Third, the muscle morphology and organizational structure The absolute strength of the muscle depends on the physiological cross-sectional area of ​​the muscle, the greater the physiological cross-section of the muscle, the greater the force generated by muscle contraction, the two are close to a positive relationship. Research by relevant scholars has shown that for every 1 square centimeter of muscle cross section, 6-12 kilograms of strength can be increased. In other words, for athletes whose height and weight are not much different, their arms with large arm circumferences should be stronger or have greater development potential.
Another quantifiable factor that influences strength is the initial length of the muscle. The size of a person's strength depends on the size of the muscles, and the potential for the development of muscle volume, which is mainly determined by the length of each person's muscles (the length between muscles and muscles). For example, there are two people. One person has a 20-centimeter biceps, and the other is 30-centimeters long. The latter is 1.5 times longer than the former. The latter's muscle cross-sectional potential is 1.5 or 2.25 times that of the former. The development potential of muscle strength is 1.5 or 3.75 times. Before training, the muscles of the two people were similar in size. After training, the muscle volume of the latter was much larger than that of the former.
The above three points are just some suggestions on material selection. In fact, the selection of athletes is a process that requires long-term exploration. The selection of materials for different projects is quite different. There are also some factors such as testosterone hormone content, red and white muscle ratio in muscle, bone and joint structure and so on. It is also a great influence on the development and flexibility of muscles. Because of the need for instrumental help, it will not be introduced here. This article represents only personal opinions.
This article is only one-sided and briefly put forward its own views from some aspects that influence the quality of the strength and the quality of flexibility.
I. The sensitive period for the development of age, strength, and strength is 13-17 years old. The age of 13-17 is the first peak for the maximum strength to enter rapid growth. The growth of strength in this age group is in sync with the increase in weight, and the maximum strength has grown rapidly, but the relative strength has not grown much. The 16-17 years old is the second highest peak of the rapid growth of the largest force. At this time, the growth rate of muscles is accelerating, and the greatest strength and relative strength are growing rapidly. This is also the most important period for the development of strength. From 18 to 25 years old, the growth of power has become slower. If you do not adhere to training later, your strength will gradually decrease with age. However, if you adhere to good training, the growth of men's power may reach 35 years old. In general, women's maximum strength is about 20 years old, and men are about 25 years old.
The growth of flexibility naturally develops before the age of 10, and after 10 years of age, the flexibility decreases with age. Therefore, due flexibility should be given before the age of 10 to increase the flexibility of natural growth. In the age of 10-13 years, flexible practice should be fully developed. Because this age is sexual maturity, the elasticity and stretchability of muscle ligaments are still more malleable. If the flexibility is not developed before the age of 10, it is 10-13 years old. In this period, compensation can still be made. Exceeding this age will cause the athletes to suffer more pains, take longer and take longer. The growth period is 13-15 years old and the flexibility is reduced. 16-20 years of age, if you have obtained good flexibility before the age of 13, this stage can increase the flexibility load, and further obtain the flexibility required for special sports.
Second, height, weight and body shape robust sturdy type of people because of muscular, so the performance of the power is also greater; body shape of the power of people followed; slender body of people is relatively weak; obese people seem to be the largest The power should be great, but from the perspective of relative power, its power level is not high. In the general selection of sporting events, weight is often related to height, and measured by body weight/height, which is measured in grams per centimeter, that is, how much body weight a one-centimeter height has, and if the index is large, the strength is generally large. However, climbing is not necessarily a good index, because fat and short people are generally larger, but it is not necessarily suitable for rock climbing, so it should be considered from a comprehensive perspective.
Third, the muscle morphology and organizational structure The absolute strength of the muscle depends on the physiological cross-sectional area of ​​the muscle, the greater the physiological cross-section of the muscle, the greater the force generated by muscle contraction, the two are close to a positive relationship. Research by relevant scholars has shown that for every 1 square centimeter of muscle cross section, 6-12 kilograms of strength can be increased. In other words, for athletes whose height and weight are not much different, their arms with large arm circumferences should be stronger or have greater development potential.
Another quantifiable factor that influences strength is the initial length of the muscle. The size of a person's strength depends on the size of the muscles, and the potential for the development of muscle volume, which is mainly determined by the length of each person's muscles (the length between muscles and muscles). For example, there are two people. One person has a 20-centimeter biceps, and the other is 30-centimeters long. The latter is 1.5 times longer than the former. The latter's muscle cross-sectional potential is 1.5 or 2.25 times that of the former. The development potential of muscle strength is 1.5 or 3.75 times. Before training, the muscles of the two people were similar in size. After training, the muscle volume of the latter was much larger than that of the former.
The above three points are just some suggestions on material selection. In fact, the selection of athletes is a process that requires long-term exploration. The selection of materials for different projects is quite different. There are also some factors such as testosterone hormone content, red and white muscle ratio in muscle, bone and joint structure and so on. It is also a great influence on the development and flexibility of muscles. Because of the need for instrumental help, it will not be introduced here. This article represents only personal opinions.
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